The first Tuesday in November sees the Melbourne Cup run at Flemington racecourse in the Victorian capital. It’s called “the race which stops a nation” and surely it is. Indeed, Melbourne has a public holiday and in much of the rest of Australia folks take the afternoon off. TVs are set up in offices, champagne brought out and chances in office sweepstakes sold.

Flemington attracts over one hundred thousand people on the day, many of whom miss seeing the race live as they watch proceedings from the many corporate marquees set up on its wide lawns. Hosts include major airlines, fashion houses and champagne makers. VVIPs roam from one silk-lined tent to another. Other lucky people get to visit just one. For the rest there are a host of ticket and seating choices. Drive there, catch a train or even arrive by helicopter should you wish.

It’s just not one race day, and certainly not only about racing. The Fashions on the Field event highlights what, for many ladies, has been an expensive time seeking out the latest design and hat to match. Polite gentlemen still wear morning suits, even though the race itself doesn’t happen until mid-afternoon. The fun goes on for over a week, culminating in the quaintly named “Ladies Day”.

This isn’t something new. The Cup’s been running since 1861 and, in 1897 the visiting Mark Twain had this to say: “The Melbourne Cup is the Australasian National Day. It would be difficult to overstate its importance. It overshadows all other holidays and specialized days of whatever sort in that congeries of colonies. Overshadows them? I might almost say it blots them out. Each of them gets attention, but not everybody’s; each of them evokes interest, but not everybody’s; each of them rouses enthusiasm, but not everybody’s; in each case a part of the attention, interest, and enthusiasm is a matter of habit and custom, and another part of it is official and perfunctory. Cup Day, and Cup Day only, commands an attention, an interest, and an enthusiasm which are universal — and spontaneous, not perfunctory. Cup Day is supreme it has no rival. I can call to mind no specialized annual day, in any country, which can be named by that large name–Supreme. I can call to mind no specialized annual day, in any country, whose approach fires the whole land with a conflagration of conversation and preparation and anticipation and jubilation. No day save this one; but this one does it.”This Tuesday (Nov. 6), 102,411 ticketholders saw the premier race, the Emirates Melbourne Cup, go to four-year-old thoroughbred Efficient (particularly sweet because the horse had to scratch last year). You might have missed it this year, but if you like fashion, fun or horses, try to include Cup Week in your 2008 visit Down Under.– Ross Hoddinott

Ross Hoddinott is a freelance writer and consultant based in Sydney.

The Hawkesbury River is less than an hour’s drive to the north of Sydney. I spend quite a deal of time there and sometimes wonder why so few overseas tourists bother to visit when it offers so much. Perhaps it’s the lack of promotion, perhaps there are so many other things on offer, most likely it’s because there’s little large-scale tourism infrastructure. So, this is for those who are infrastructure-abhorrent.

The Hawkesbury is a great river, running at first as an estuary from the Pacific Ocean between massive sandstone cliffs and then meandering along flatlands, much of the way through national parks and at other times interspersed by small villages and properties. You won’t forget the scenery.

Here are a few choices for discovery:

Take a morning ride out of Brooklyn on the Riverboat Postman, a true official mail service which provides for isolated residents along the river. It’s the last of its type in Australia and a great chance to see just how remote this area must have been two centuries ago (some of the folk you come across might seem closer to then than now). Tel 61 2 9985 7566.

Hire a houseboat for two or three days midweek when the rates are cheaper and the river quieter. You really don’t need to bring much – catering can be arranged – they are easy to dive and the rules of the river are quite simple. Relax while exploring the waterways, mainly in the park where it is hard to believe that you are so close to a city of 4 million. You can even try your hand at landing a fish – not hard at all in these waters.

Splurge (well, not a lot) on a seaplane ride from Sydney Harbor and see the northern beaches before touching down right outside a local restaurant. Cottage Point Inn has fabulous food in a gorgeous setting. A little further up, Peats Bite offers good food with laid back outdoor entertainment of a weekend in a friendly isolated setting. We saw Billy Joel cry — honest! — as he left after a great day easing back. Not least are the people you’ll meet. No tour groups, lots of locals and a brief chance to get to know real Australians. Enjoy!

– Ross Hoddinott

Ross Hoddinott is a freelance writer and consultant based in Sydney.