Pacific Northwest
Gem of the Cascades
Aug 15th
Yesterday we finished up our vacation with a visit to Crater Lake National Park. It was right along our route home from Redmond, Ore., where we’d spent the past week relaxing at Eagle Crest Resort, and, as fellow blogger John Wroblewski wrote last week, this weekend is a fee-free day in a number of the national parks, including Crater Lake. (Although at ten dollars for a seven-day pass per vehicle, the park entrance fees really should not be an excuse to keep anyone from visiting.) Most of all, I was eager to revisit a place where I’d spent an entire summer working — my best summer job experience.
We entered through the North Entrance and drove most of the 33-mile amazingly scenic Rim Drive that circles the lake. Although my husband is also a native Oregonian, he had never been to the park, so I enjoyed seeing his reaction to the incredible vistas from the many viewpoints along the way. The lake’s nickname, “Gem of the Cascades,” is thoroughly appropriate, a fact I first appreciated on viewing the lake from an airliner at 30,000 feet several years before I first stood on the rim of this volcanic caldera. It looked like nothing so much as a gorgeous, brilliant sapphire in a setting of snowcapped peaks. That stunning deep blue is truly unique and remarkable, unlike any color I’ve seen in the waters of the Pacific or Mediterranean.
It’s been 33 years since I spent that wonderful summer in the park, and very little of the setting has changed. One of the most important aspects of our national parks is that they seek to preserve some of the world’s most beautiful and unique ecosystems for future generations to enjoy. I did note that the Rim Village area, which contains the historic lodge and other visitor facilities, has been reconfigured to further minimize the human impact visually and otherwise from this area. A large parking lot that used to sit right along the rim has been replaced with a grassy meadow, and cabins and camp sites are now located several miles away from the caldera edge.
Our visit to my old friend was a great way to finish up our time off, and I’ll be sure it isn’t too long before I visit again. If you’re ever anywhere close to Crater Lake, don’t pass up the opportunity to experience this incredible place.
– Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor
White Water Fun
Aug 14th
This past week I enjoyed my first white-water rafting experience. We are vacationing in Central Oregon, and as soon as we got settled into our accomodations, I looked into my options for some outdoor adventure. Sun Country Tours offered what sounded like the perfect first-time trip (especially for daughter Jenny, who took some convincing that while thrilling and wet, this was going to be a safe and fun experience). We chose a three-mile trip on the Deschutes River, just outside of Bend.
We boarded an old school bus with about 30 other folks, most visiting from outside of Oregon, and were dropped off at the launch site just above the Big Eddy section of the river. After being fitted out with lifejackets and paddles, Jenny and I boarded a raft with four other guests hailing from North Carolina. Our guide, Gus, helped acquaint us with some basic safety guidelines and paddle maneuvers and commands as we glided along a fairly smooth section of the river. There were plenty of jokes and laughter, but one couldn’t deny the tension and nerves lying just under the surface as we approached our first set of rapids, the rather alarmingly named Class-2 “Murder Death Fang.”
With some whoops and more than a little splashing, we bumped right over that first obstacle quickly and fairly easily. The rapids didn’t live up to that frightening title at all. Okay, we can do this! Gus had to keep reminding our two “leaders” at the front of the raft to follow his commands (paddle forward or back, left or right, and stop) and let him do the steering — this in spite of the fact that neither of them had ever rafted before. After giving ourselves a “paddle high-five,” we maneuvered the raft to shore so that we could climb out and scout the next few sets of rapids.
I could see as we stood on the bank looking down at a mass of glass-green water churning into white foam that Jenny was regretting her decision to join me on this little excursion. Gus pointed out the route we would be taking and his strategy for attacking each portion of the river. After introducing us to the first “strong Class 3″ named Kenmore (yes, like the washing machine — for the obvious reason), Gus walked us farther downstream to discuss the next rapids. These were also a strong Class 3, but the terror that had enveloped my mind at that point prevents me from recalling what horrifyingly appropriate name that one is called. As our now quiet and more-than-a-little-anxious group trudged back upstream to climb back in our raft, Jenny rolled her eyes at me and announced, “You owe me, big time!” I tried to sound upbeat and light-hearted as I reassured her that all would be great, but all that fast-moving and dangerous-looking water had me a little weak in the knees, too.
After wedging our feet firmly under the seats in front of and behind us, we paddled the raft back to the center of the current. Gus steered us into the proper path, and then we were paddling as fast as we could. We slammed into the wall of standing water just over the first drop and were engulfed by water washing over the front of the raft and smashing down on us from behind. Involuntary hollers and yelps erupted along with exhilarated laughter, and ferocious paddling finally brought us clear of that first obstacle. I remarked that my legs were more tired from straining to hold my posture in the raft than my arms were from manning the paddle, but what a thrill that ride was! We had only moments to realize we’d made it through that first powerful stretch with no one going overboard before we were upon the next Class 3. Again we were engulfed from all sides, it seemed, with the roaring, chilling deluge, momentarily blinded by the splash and deafened by the wash of water before paddling furiously out of it.
By now we were eager to meet more white water, but the most challenging stretches were behind us. We splashed through The Three Stooges (Class 2) and then Rodeo, where one member of our group got to sit at the very front of the raft and ride the Class 2 water as if on a bucking bronc (she fell back into the boat after just the first bump). And then, well before we were ready for it, our pull-out point was reached. All of us, even Jenny, were wishing we could run the river again.
I would certainly recommend this kind of excursion to anyone visiting this area, and I am eager to try a longer outing on my next trip here. And on a hot summer day, there couldn’t be a more thrilling, fun way to cool off!
– Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor
Time Off
Aug 8th
Yesterday my husband and I arrived at Eagle Crest Resort just outside of Redmond, Ore. We’re here for a week of relaxation and fun. Most of this summer has been busy, with only quick weekend trips up to Portland and lots of company at our house, so we’re ready for a little extended quiet time. As a school administrator, Harry finds August to be one of the busiest times of the year, so this is his opportunity to take a nice deep breath and chill out before things get hectic. For me, although we’re coming up on deadline for the September issue of Global Traveler, it means I can attend to my work and then not think about gardening or housekeeping chores.
The resort is located in an area very popular with outdoor enthusiasts. Located on the eastern (and, therefore, the dry) side of the Cascade Mountains in Central Oregon, it is blessed with over 300 days of sunshine a year, and while summer temperatures can be very warm, the nights often cool off nicely. There are rivers for fishing, whitewater rafting and kayaking; mountains for rock climbing and hiking (and skiing in the winter); and plenty of golf courses (the resort here alone boasts three).
I’ve already decided to take a few classes (yoga, aqua aerobics) at the sports center, do a little rafting and learn to paddle a kayak. I may sample the resort’s spa offerings and will definitely plan some time by the pool. I’m not a golfer, but I’ve enjoyed Eagle Crest’s very challenging 18-hole putting course in the past and look forward to tackling it again. Yep, it’s going to be a great week!
– Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor
Afternoon on the River
Aug 1st
Twice within this past week I have enjoyed a jetboat ride on the Rogue River out of Grants Pass, Ore., just a short trip up Interstate 5 from my home. We’ve had a lot of company recently, and these two-hour jaunts are a great way to share some of the local area with out-of-town guests, especially on 90-degree-plus days. Hellgate Excursions hosts some 85,000 visitors a season (May to September) on its prop-less, hydro-jet-powered boats that can skim, fully loaded with 60 passengers, over the rocky riverbed in just eight inches of water. With sudden stops and 360-degree turns executed by the highly entertaining pilots, one is guaranteed to get a little or a lot wet, depending on where in the boat you sit.
A typical 36-mile roundtrip takes one from the banks of the river in downtown Grants Pass to the beginning stretches of Hellgate Canyon, the start of the “wild and scenic” stretch of the waterway that was one of the eight original rivers designated in the 1968 National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, signed into law by President Johnson. This particular part of the river has long been popular as a film location for movies and T.V. shows (Gunsmoke, Rooster Cogburn, The River Wild . . . even the jump-off-the-cliff scene from Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid), but what we found most fascinating on our trip this past Friday afternoon was the wildlife we encountered along the tamer banks of the river.
The driver/guides on the boats do a great job of pointing out all manner of critters they spy while concurrently piloting the boats over the riffles and rapids at up to 40 mph. There are great blue herons, geese, ducks, Western pond turtles, deer and beaver (usually, one only sees their lodges). There are lots of osprey nesting in the tall trees along both sides of the river, and one can easily hear the high-pitched calls of the young in the nests while the parents circle over the water looking for fish for dinner. Huge, ugly turkey vultures share the air currents waiting for something to scavenge, and we were told there were three nesting pairs of bald eagles along the stretch of river we would cover that day.
Only a few miles after we got underway, our guide spotted a single eagle, white head and tail feathers clearly visible, high up in a Douglas fir, and he dropped the boat into an idle and let out a piercing whistle. I’m not sure that the bird was responding to that or something else, but he launched himself off his perch and began circling lower and lower over the water until he made a quick dive towards the surface a short way downstream from the boat. He came up empty-handed (empty-taloned?), but it was nonetheless thrilling to see such a large, magnificent specimen of our national bird in action in the wild. Later on, we spied a pair of eagles which once again seemed to respond to our pilot’s whistle and circled directly over our heads only 20 feet above us — beautiful!
The most fascinating sight we encountered came when we were nearly back at the dock. A large osprey sat on the bank, perched atop a large 3- to 4-pound spring steelhead he had somehow managed to pluck from the water. Apparently tired from the effort of the catch and marshalling his strength before attempting to carry the fish back to his babies and nest high in the treetops, he eyed some unwelcome company not far away — and it wasn’t the humans in the boat. About 20 feet downstream was a hulking turkey vulture, eager for an easy dinner. As we watched, the scavenger hopped slowly towards the hunter, all hunched over and sneaky like some villain in a melodrama, his black, drooping wings like a cape draped about him. I would’ve loved to have watched the scene play out, but we needed to get back for the next tour, so after five minutes or so the guide started up the engines again and we lost sight of the foes. We were told that it was likely the osprey would lose the fish, as his mate didn’t dare leave her babies alone in the nest (eagles could swoop in and snatch them up without an adult standing guard), and the turkey vulture could expect reinforcements of others of his kind who would eventually wrest the prize from the exhausted bird.
It made for a great conclusion to our river trip. Each of the excursions I’ve taken on the Rogue has been unique and interesting, and I’m looking forward to sharing the experience with the next group of friends who come to town. Headed my way? Let me show you what I’m talking about!
– Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor
