Islands

My second full day in New Zealand was one of my favorites (and they were all pretty spectacular). It began with a 45-minute ferry ride out of Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour to Waiheke Island in the Hauraki Gulf east of the City of Sails. It was a lovely, sunny morning, and I took my seat on the upper open deck of the ferry to take in the scenery and enjoy the mild air. We passed by Rangitoto Island, born of the last eruption in the area some 600 years ago. Its volcanic origins are obvious in its cone-shaped peak, and its heavily forested slopes are now a nature preserve popular for bush walks and daytrips from the city.

Once we landed at Waiheke, we were met by Steve from Ananda Tours, who gave us a brief overview of the island and its history. Once covered with towering kauri trees, prized for their tall, straight, knot-free trunks by the British navy, the island was mostly deforested by 1850. Sheep and beef farms then took over, but over the last 30 years or so vineyards and olive groves have crowded out the more traditional agriculture. Its location means the island receives almost 30 percent less rainfall than Auckland and can be several degrees warmer, and together with its rocky soil provides the right kind of growing conditions for grape vines. It’s also a beautiful setting and just far enough from the city to provide wonderful weekend and holiday getaways without requiring extensive travel time. The island’s permanent population of 8,000 residents swells to 40,000 in the summer months, and our brief visit there made me wish I had the chance to make several long-weekend stays.

Our first stop was at the Rangihoua Estate to sample several of their award-winning, certified organic extra virgin olive oils. I enjoyed the chance to experience the different flavors evident in oils made from different varieties of olives as well as some unique blends. Next it was on to Te Whau Vineyard (pronounced “tee fou” — “wh” in Maori is pronounced “f”), where owner Tony Forsyth, a retired psychologist, explained his philosophy of both winemaking and his award-winning cafe while pouring tastes of some luscious Bordeaux-blend reds. Unfortunately, his production of less than a thousand cases a year means that you won’t get this wine in the States unless you’re a member of his wine club.

The next winery we visited, Stonyridge Vineyard (and Restaurant), produces both red and white wines and also boasts a large and productive olive orchard. Here again some valley vineyards with a toasty microclimate allow the winery to produce some lovely red blends from the grapes harvested there. While 62 percent of New Zealand wine grape production is in Sauvignon Blanc, it was nice to get the chance to try these tasty, lesser-known reds. We arrived just a few days after the fall crush had been completed, so the staff was pretty exhausted but nonetheless cheerful and welcoming. Winemaker Summer Bell proudly showed us the all-by-hand production line and basket press before we headed upstairs to a wide, shaded deck looking out over the rows of autumn-colored vines. While it would have been pleasant to linger there and partake of the winery’s cafe offerings along with more wine, lunch was scheduled at our final stop on the tour.

We arrived at Mudbrick Vineyard & Restaurant already in a jolly mood; and the views, setting and meal there were a fantastic cap to the day. The hand-hewn, mudbrick buildings set into the hillside and the French potager gardens (with herbs and vegetables grown in them incorporated into the menu) could have been dropped straight from Bordeaux. I could see why this is a favorite spot for weddings: The wide, brick terrace and rustic-formal dining room look out over the vineyards and then far down to the shimmering sea beyond. The wide windows and french doors were thrown open to the mild and sunny day, so we drank in the views as we sipped sparkling wine before lunch. The four-course affair was delectable and beautifully presented as well, with local seafood, beef and produce prominently featured. It would have been lovely to have lingered the rest of the afternoon there, but all too soon we had to drag ourselves away to catch the ferry back to Auckland.

I do know this: When (not if) I return to this region again, I will be scheduling at least two or three days on this idyllic island to more leisurely enjoy its wines, vistas and laid-back ambience.

– Patty Vanikiotis, proofreader