This month’s issue of Global Traveler has a wonderful article on London, with plenty of great suggestions on what to see and where to stay and dine. I shared the piece with daughter Jenny, as she and her fellow students would be spending a month in the area during their study abroad experience. Our family had actually stayed in London for several days a number of years ago when Jenny’s big sister was studying in England, so she had already had the opportunity to experience some of that delightful city’s offerings. We visited St. Paul’s, the British Museum and the National Gallery, shopped at Harrods and took in a play in the West End. There was not enough time to see everything we wished, so Jenny has been looking forward to getting back to London.

 In just the last two weeks on daytrips in to the city, she has toured the Tower of London (and has decided the jewels alone would make it worth being Queen of England), spent some time in the museums, visited Harrods (again!) and thoroughly enjoyed a production of Sister Act: The Musical at the Palladium Theatre. That is not all she’s taken in, though. No, as a nursing student, Jenny has also visited some lesser-known attractions in London that have been, at the very least, eye-opening.

First stop was the Hunterian Museum, located at the Royal College of Surgeons. John Hunter, an 18th-century surgeon, collected and preserved thousands of specimens of plants and animals (and assorted human body parts) in order to better understand anatomy and improve medical treatment and surgical techniques. His original collection was purchased by the government in 1799, given to the Royal College and grew exponentially over the decades. Even though a large portion of the collection was lost during the bombing of London during World War II, Jenny was amazed at the number and variety of items on display.

They then proceeded to the Old Operating Theatre, dating back to the 1820s and the oldest in all of Europe. It’s actually located in the attic space of a church which adjoined St. Thomas’s Hospital — convenient, I guess, whether the surgery was successful or not. Actually, a large skylight just above the operating table provided good light, and the gallery gave apothecaries and physicians-in-training the opportunity to observe and learn. This was, of course, in the days before anaesthesia was available (except for opium and alcohol, that is), so speed was important. Jenny’s group saw a demonstration of how an amputation might be done, including the knives and other instruments used. Her one-word assessment: “Gross!” Usually, these modern nurses-to-be would also visit the Florence Nightingale Museum, also located at St. Thomas’s, but it is closed right now for updating.

Just this past Wednesday the group took in a little more medical history when they visited St. Mary’s Hospital and the lab where Alexander Fleming discovered penicillin in 1928. Fleming had been working with staph bacteria before he’d left on a two-week holiday. On his return, he was clearing away Petri dishes that had become contaminated with mold and happened to notice that the bacteria in those dishes seemed to have been killed by the mold. Jenny found this quite instructive and deduced a few nuggets to live by: Taking a break from work can be good for you in unexpected ways, and perfection in housekeeping could be detrimental, also in unexpected ways. (I would say that when she was a teenager in our house, she had already embraced that last philosophy!)

It just goes to show that there are always fascinating places to see and new things to learn that are often off the beaten track from the usual tourist destinations in the cities we visit. Follow your own interests and inclinations, grab a map or Google a bit and create your own personalized tour.

– Patty Vanikiotis, proofreader

This past week I discovered a wonderful event which I’ve already decided will become the kick-off activity of the holiday season for me every year from now on. One of the pluses of moving to a new community is being exposed to its unique festivals,celebrations and institutions. Here in the Rogue Valley (and, specifically, the city of Medford) is a lovely performing arts center, the Craterian Ginger Rogers Theater. Opened in 1924 as a venue for both live traveling performances and popular movies of the day, it was transformed in 1997 into a community performing arts center after languishing unused for several years. The famed dancer/actress purchased a ranch here on the Rogue River in the ’40s and was a quiet but active member of  the community until her death in 1995. She supported fundraisers focused on the remodeling of the old Craterian; hence, the addition of her name to the site.

The theater hosts an ecletic assortment of national concert, dance and theatrical tours each year in addition to several local and regional dance and musical entities and is operated by a non-profit organization. For several years now, the largest fundraiser for that group has been the annual Gingerbread Jubilee. On Tuesday I trekked downtown, plunked down a measly three dollars and spent the next 90 minutes thoroughly amazed and impressed with the ingenuity, skill and artistry of those who submitted the 48 entries on display. There were a few different divisions – student, adult, individual and group — and very few rules. The only one that really seemed to matter is that everything used in each creation had to be an edible item (not just gingerbread). The more I looked, the more I spotted some really amazing adaptations of cereal, various kinds of pasta and even dried seaweed as building materials!

This being the 150th anniversary of Oregon’s statehood, several displays depicted well-known historical sites and events from the past. There was a lovely recreation of the Chateau at the Oregon Caves National Monument, a 1934 rustic wooden hotel; a covered bridge complete with goldfish-cracker residents ”swimming” in the “river” below; a log homestead with a rock-candy chimney. Most impressive for its intricate detailing inside and out as well as the age of its creators was a beautiful rendition of a one-room schoolhouse. Tiny fondant-molded coats, hats, gloves and lunch boxes cluttered the cloak room; desks contained books and were covered with crayons, calculators and papers with homework problems sketched on them; outside, a lizard sunned itself on a bench next to a basketball hoop. All of this was created by a team of students aged 5 through 11 who attend a charter school in the area.

Other entrants were inspired by the holiday season (creche scenes and the North Pole), the environment (”Save the Penguins” and salmon streams) and popular culture. Where the Wild Things Are was represented by Max’s room growing out of one of the pages in the book, with some of the wild things — perfect replicas — romping nearby. One of my favorites was the house from the movie Up invented by a 17-year-old girl who created the three-story structure in amazing detail inside and out (rabbit-eared T.V. and gramophone included). Garnering “Best of Show” was Saurusville, designed by a woman who has entered the Jubilee several years in a row and is truly an artist. Inspired by her 5-year-old son’s infatuation with the PBS kids’ show Dinosaur Train (for which she and he created a separate entry depicting the train winding its way through a tunnel and around some mountains on its way to the town), she dreamed up an entire community including a four-story hotel, cinema, bakery shop and apartments with dinosaur denizens included. How does anyone, let alone someone with a 5-year-old, have the time and patience to create such wonders?!

I left the exhibit utterly charmed and amazed. My past meager attempts at very simple gingerbread houses taught me just enough to realize that the individuals who made these elaborate creations possess an unbelievable amount of imagination, stamina and patience (and steady hands!). They even inspired me to consider taking another stab at a gingerbread creation in the future. In the meantime, though, I will be more than happy to look forward to attending this annual event to begin each Christmas season with healthy doses of whimsy, wonder and awe.

– Patty Vanikiotis, proofreader

As I mentioned in a blog a few weeks ago, I was happy to return to London this October after an almost five year hiatus. I spent more than three months in the city during my junior year at Syracuse University, and I was eager to return. And, once again, London did not disappoint and I made the most of my time there.

I arrived early in the morning on Wednesday and checked into the InterContinental Park Lane. To refresh and rejuvenate after the long flight, I enjoyed a reflexology treatment and spent about 15 minutes in the spa’s flotation bed. After catching my breath, I enjoyed lunch and a Champagne flight on the London Eye. The Champagne flight is available to all passengers of the London Eye. A consultant comes on the pod with riders and everyone enjoys a bottle of bubbly as they soak in the sights of London.

On Wednesday night, I was able to attend the exclusive Vanity Fair/London Restaurant Festival Week launch party at Quaglino’s. Following the reception, I enjoyed the opening night of Pierre Koffman’s pop-up restaurant on the roof of Selfridges. The pop-up restaurant was originally intended to be only open during the festival, but due to its popularity, it has been extended through November. Should you find yourself in London next month, check it out. I dined a table away from Tom Parker Bowles. The pistachio souffle is a must!

Thursday, I enjoyed a morning stroll through Covent Garden market. I watched all the vendors set up shop and enjoyed the sounds of a classical music busker ensemble. In the afternoon I made my way over to the Tate Modern. Pop Life, an exhibit featuring the work of Andy Warhol and others, is currently at the museum. It was my first visit to the Tate Modern. Afternoon tea at Harvey Nichols was a perfect way to wind down in the afternoon. I spent a relaxing evening enjoying dinner at Theo Randall, in the InterContinental, and cocktails and dancing at the nearby Met Bar.

When Friday rolled around, I was disappointed I only had two more days in my favorite city. But, boy, I filled them. In the morning, I visited the Judith Blacklock Flower School for a flower arranging lesson. I spent the afternoon browsing Borough Market and enjoyed lots of delicious treats. In the evening, as a special treat, I enjoyed the InterContinental’s cinema suite. Due to technical difficulties, the EatFilm launch, a part of restaurant festival week, was canceled. The event showcased a food movie, followed by a dinner with a menu inspired by the film. No worries, watching Chocolat and having a special company come in to teach me about chocolate and how to make my own helped me create my own EatFilm night.

On Saturday I visited the Tower of London in the morning. In all the time I spent in London, I had never made it to the Tower. I enjoyed lunch at the Royal Academy with GT representative Joanna Percy. We also took in the Anish Kapoor exhibit. I took a trip down memory lane in the late afternoon, taking the Tube to Edgware Road and walking around the old neighborhood and past our old townhouse. In the evening, I went to the theater and saw Oliver, which was great! Those children could really perform.

And, alas, Sunday came and it was time to return home. I’ll save my thoughts on Heathrow’s Terminal 5 for a different day.

– Kimberly Krol, eFlyer editor, circulation and public relations executive

Last week’s frenzy of packing up and moving out of our East Wenatchee home was followed by one of my favorite road trips: a drive down the Columbia River Gorge. This journey provides a balm to my mind and spirit that never fails me; no matter the state my life is in at the time, and no matter how many times I drive it, the wide-open vistas and eternal nature of the landscapes soothe, refresh and delight me.

An easy daytrip from Portland, it can just as easily provide more than enough in sidetrips and activities to fill up a long weekend and more. I recommend it to visitors to the city over a drive to the coast for the diversity of ecosystems and prospects it provides. The 200-mile-or-so loop upriver and back takes one from urban center to forest-clad river gorges and snowcapped mountain peaks to basalt lava flows and high desert sagelands.

On my one-way trip south and west, I enter the Gorge just outside of Goldendale, Wa., on US Highway 97. Generally, traffic crosses the Columbia at Biggs Junction here, but refurbishment of the bridge this winter detours one along State Highway 14 on the Washington side some 20 miles west to a crossing just below The Dalles Dam. What it adds to driving time vs. Interstate 84 on the Oregon side is more than compensated for by the far better views. Just here is the Maryhill Museum and Sam Hill’s Stonehenge, a replica of England’s, erected as a memorial to WWI soldiers. Although closed from mid-November to mid-March, the museum has a surprisingly impressive permanent collection and numerous special exhibits–and killer views.

The highway rides along the upper edge of the basalt cliffs, curving along past grazeland, vineyards, wineries and orchards. One’s eye drops to the Columbia far below and then is raised up to jaw-dropping images of Mt. Hood posed regally on the western horizon. There are  spots where one can safely pull over and drink in the views of river, cliffs, mountains and wheat- and rangeland stretching away on high plateaus to the south and east. One of the great appeals to me is that the changing angle of the light due to time of day or year, the season, the weather and the wind (stirring up the river below or leaving it like a sheet of glass) all interact to provide a dynamically different picture each time I travel this way. The natural forces which shaped this terrain–numerous lava flows, some hundreds of feet thick, followed by equally numerous ice-age floods–leave me feeling more than a little awed–and small.

Approaching The Dalles, one has the opportunity to study evidence of human history at Horsethief Lake State Park, where petroglyphs and some of the oldest pictographs in the Northwest can be seen. This area has been a center for trade for over 10,000 years. Up until the dam, completed in 1957, flooded the upper reaches, Celilo Falls, a series of rocky cascades on the river, were prized fishing grounds for several tribes. They harvested salmon with nets and spears from the rocks and rickety-looking platforms and successfully defended their rights to do so even after the white men (Lewis and Clark being the first) arrived. The Dalles itself was the official end of the historic Oregon Trail, where those who traversed the Plains in covered wagons ended their journey by barging the rest of the way to Oregon City and the Willamette Valley down the Columbia. These days, aside from barges loaded with wheat bound downriver, the most often-seen craft are windsurf boards, piloted by (to me) insane people drawn to the sunny climate and almost-constant winds of the Gorge. Even on this chill, early December day, I spot a few brightly colored sails skimming over the water and bouncing across the whitecaps at speeds that approach 35 miles an hour. Like I said, insane.

More on the journey tomorrow.

Patty Vanikiotis, proofreader

I was in Toronto last week and had the chance to experience some of the great food and art venues offered in the city, which is undergoing a bit of a cultural renaissance.

First off, the city does have a lot to offer on the cultural scene. The Gardiner Museum is dedicated to ceramics and has a top-notch restaurant owned by Jamie Kennedy, a popular Toronto chef. The Royal Ontario Museum, which recently opened the Lee-Chin Crystal, an addition added to the existing structure and designed by Daniel Libeskind, features all kinds of exhibits - from dinosaurs to Canadian history to diamonds and textiles. I attended the press launch of the Art Gallery of Ontario, which reopened November 14 after a major redesign by famed architect Frank Gehry. If you are a shoe lover (like myself), the Bata Shoe Museum is a quirky place to check out. I was a bit disappointed with the lack of contemporary shoes on display, but it is a fun place to wander around for an hour. And the Four Seasons Center for the Performing Arts is home to the Canadian Opera Company and the ballet. I caught a free jazz concert there featuring Adi Braun and pianist Jordan Klapman. If you are into the arts, Queen Street West is the spot for you - almost thirty blocks of art galleries and other funky stores and hotels. If you are looking for somewhere different to stay, try the Drake or Gladstone.

There are a ton of other things to do in the city as well. You can stroll through St. Lawrence Market, Kensington Market or the Distillery District. The city prides itself on its rich ethnic diversity, so check out tons of different neighborhoods and eateries all throughout the city.

With quick service on Porter Airlines, getting to Toronto from the New York and Chicago areas has never been easier. The airline is the only one that takes you directly into Toronto City Centre Airport! Look for a comprehensive review of the service in an upcoming eFlyer.

I was on a quest for a bagel, as I hear Canada is renowned for them, but alas I never had a chance to grab one. But I hear Montreal is really the spot for the world’s tastiest bagels, so maybe next time!

Stay tuned for more about Toronto and all the great spots to visit in the February issue of Global Traveler!

-Kimberly Krol, eFlyer editor, circulation and public relations executive