Cruises/Cruising
Exploring the City of Sails
May 8th
Our first full day in Auckland (and it was a very full day) began with a morning exploration of the Auckland War Memorial Museum. It is set at the top of a hill in the Auckland Domain, a huge, lovely park with lots of open space, trails and heritage trees that would be an easy and scenic jog from our accomodations at The Langham Auckland. While its name might suggest that its exhibits are focused on war, the museum houses a broad and fascinating range of collections encompassing natural history, geology, culture and mankind’s history in the Pacific. Set atop one of Auckland’s numerous extinct volcanic cones, the building possesses a commanding view of the area and presents a solemn, classical columned ediface as one approaches up a long drive. Looping around to the opposite side, however, one comes upon the modern Grand Foyer with its wooden “bowl” which sweeps up over the heads of visitors to support a large exhibition and banquet space four floors above.
One could easily spend a day or more at the museum, and it boasts everything from very kid-friendly, interactive exhibits to a well-respected and much-used research library. Admission is free (a $10NZ donation for adults is welcomed), although there is a charge for guided tours and some special exhibits and events. We made good use of our time visiting just a few of the highlights.
New Zealand sits on the Pacific Ring of Fire, and the museum boasts a gallery full of displays on earthquakes and eruptions, complete with a “Shake House” where one watches a mock T.V. news broadcast of an impending volcanic eruption in Auckland’s bay as the house lurches from tremors. We also enjoyed a half-hour Maori cultural performance (the only location in Auckland to present such shows on a daily basis) which included songs, a demonstration of games which were also used to prepare and train warriors, and the haka, a pre-battle ”dance” and chant meant to intimidate one’s foes. (If you saw Invictus, you saw the New Zealand rugby team, the All Blacks, perform a haka before their match.) One of the performers then took us on a brief guided tour of the Maori Court to explain some of the symbolism behind the carvings found on the model storehouse, meeting house and enormous war canoe exhibited there.
We then made our way down to the Viaduct precinct of Auckland’s waterfront to board one of Pride of Auckland‘s 15-meter monohull yachts for a luncheon cruise. We’d been watching heavy clouds building, and, sure enough, just as we stepped aboard, the first spatters of rain struck. After box lunches and hot drinks were handed ’round by the captain and his mate, we headed out into the waters of Waitemata Harbour. Some of us bravely (foolishly?) sat above in the gradually increasing showers, while others ducked below for a tamer but much drier experience. By the time our sandwiches were consumed, it was apparent that, rather than letting up, the rain was increasing to a steady downpour. Large waterproof ponchos were distributed to those still on deck as the healthy wind which accompanied the deluge pushed us along at a good clip. Being a Pacific Northwesterner with plenty of experience with and no fear of a little damp, I enjoyed the ride up top with my fellow writers from the Northeast who had experience sailing and also were not averse to a little weather. We made a quick foray under the Harbour Bridge and observed the bungy-jumping platform slung under the roadway above before heading back to port. Since Auckland hadn’t had any measureable rainfall since December and the region had just officially declared a drought, I was not going to begrudge the weather, especially since I still thoroughly enjoyed myself.
The “retail therapy” planned for the rest of the afternoon was effectively washed out by the continuing rain, however, so we slogged our way back to our rooms for a change of clothes before a most interesting visit to Air New Zealand‘s Hangar 9. For insight into how one airline develops its passenger cabins, check out tomorrow’s blog.
 – Patty Vanikiotis, proofreader
Barbara Ann
Apr 11th
Like the girl in the Beach Boys’ song, my sister-in-law was a California girl — at least up until she married my brother Glenn. Our Barb isn’t a blonde-haired, blue-eyed surfer girl, though; she has soft, brown curls and deep, warm, brown eyes. Barb came into the family just as I was heading off to college, and for most of our adult lives we lived in different towns, if not different states. Our family is a large one, though, and there were usually at least a few times a year when we would reconnect at a family birthday, wedding or baby shower or holiday. And almost every year a whole slew of we ladies find a place to get together for a weekend of girl talk, shopping and kicking back without any mommy duties.
To any of these gatherings Barb always brings her sunny spirit and delightful sense of humor. She is one of those special people that can make anyone feel welcome and comfortable in her presence. She’s got a knack for finding the best little shops and boutiques in whatever seaside town or mountain resort village we’re having our girls’ weekend and has a keen eye for everything from beautifully crafted quilts to intricately designed jewelry. She can tell an amusing story as well as listen thoughtfully when one needs a sympathetic ear and is a low-key, low-maintenance kind of gal who is as happy gallavanting around a new place as she is just kicking back and chilling out. ALL of those qualities make her an excellent traveling companion, a fact I thoroughly enjoyed during the cruise we took together this past May.
 Barb and sisters Julie and Ann had arrived in Venice, our embarkation port for our 12-day Mediterranean odyssey, a day ahead of me. When I arrived, bedraggled and nearly comatose after my overnight flight from Seattle, Barb greeted me in our hotel with a cheerful welcome and an offer to help me get settled. She nearly literally led me by the hand to a nearby ATM to stock up on euros and then got me to the right ticket counter to get a multi-day vaporetto pass. The next day she proved that she was just as adept at finding the best places to shop in Italy as she is at home. She shared the locations of some great glass shops as well as Fortuny’s lovely fabric shop in the Rialto district.
I don’t think Barb had been at our hotel more than a few hours before she had made fast friends with a couple of the young bellmen/servers there. By the time I arrived, “her boys” were joking and teasing with her, and they were happy to bring her a cool drink or espresso out by the courtyard fountain whenever she appeared. I’m certain we all benefited from the little extra attentions that came our way because of Barb’s ability to befriend and feel comfortable with just about anyone, whether they share a language or not.Â
Once we embarked on our cruise, Barb proved just as adept at making friends aboard ship or at any of our ports of call — and her knack for finding lovely things in any city was positively uncanny — and very welcome. If we all split up for different activities during the day, we could look forward to sharing stories of our separate adventures over dinner, and Barb could make just sitting at a sidewalk cafe an interesting tale. One of her best stories was of running into a gentleman in the concierge lounge on the ship who once starred in a T.V. medical drama in the ’70s. She recognized him right away but didn’t let on that she did, even as she described how he seemed eager to engage her in conversation and be recognized. She decided his ego really didn’t need that extra bit of inflating, and she mischievously delighted in denying him the fawning fan bit.
That cruise provided me the wonderful opportunity of getting to know my sister-in-law of some 30 years much better, and I am so thankful for that time together. We learned this week that Barb will soon be taking a journey where those who love her may not follow. Know that we will carry you with us, Barb, and we will cherish our time spent with you. Peace.
– Patty Vanikiotis, proofreader
  Â
Would You Go?
Jan 24th
Yesterday I blogged about some of the efforts that have been directed towards Haiti and relief for the survivors of the January 12 quake. As mentioned there and in GT‘s January 21 edition of the eFlyer newsletter, a number of businesses in the travel industry have stepped up to offer large donations of supplies, money and aid. One company, Royal Caribbean International, has received a lot of attention over the past week for the decision it has made to continue port calls of its cruise ships at the line’s private resort in Haiti.
The company’s CEO, Richard D. Fain, in a letter on RCCL’s website, explained why they decided to continue to bring cruise guests to Labadee, located some 60 miles from Port au Prince and undamaged by the quake. He outlined the company’s ties to Haiti: a relationship that dates back over 20 years, hundreds of Haitians employed on the ships and at the resort, previous and future plans to provide humanitarian aid to the people. He noted that a broad spectrum of people, from taxi drivers to the U.N. Special Envoy of the Government of Haiti, had asked that Royal Caribbean continue to provide its vital revenue stream to the country in the form of tourist dollars. The website also notes the many ways that RCCL is providing aid beyond those dollars: a pledge of at least $1 million, supplies delivered with every ship docking, a promise that 100 percent of the net revenues from those port calls goes to relief efforts, and providing guests the opportunity to make donations directly by putting a charge on their onboard accounts.
In scanning through the comments to this letter and to the blog of Adam Goldstein, Royal Caribbean International’s CEO, I see that the majority of respondents are in favor of the company’s decision to continue its cruise visits to Labadee and praise the aid being provided. There are some sharp objections as well, though. One writer asks why at least one of the ships isn’t offered for use as a safe haven for Haitians and/or rescue workers. Another asks why Royal Caribbean places guests in proximity to “the Horror” and doesn’t simply provide monetary compensation to the vendors who would be impacted by the ships going elsewhere. One woman who is booked on a February cruise firmly states that she does not wish to go to Haiti but cannot get a refund from either the cruise line or her travel insurance if she cancels. I have to admit that I agree with her when she writes: “To vacation in such proximity to a disaster zone of this magnitude is disgusting. It’s not a zoo . . . .” Others express security concerns and worry about the spread of infectious diseases. Bizarrely, one man suggested that the company organize special shore excursions which would allow cruise guests to tote backbacks loaded with relief supplies to areas in need!! (For a wise discussion of “Voluntourism,” see Richard Newton’s article on the subject in the January 2009 issue of Global Traveler.)
I’m curious what our educated and well-traveled readers think about this controversy. Do you think Royal Caribbean has made a wise decision in continuing its port calls to its resort on Haiti at this time? If you were booked on such a cruise, how would you feel about that part of the itinerary? Would you cancel the cruise? Go, but stay on the ship, or go ashore and spend liberally and donate heavily? What say you?
– Patty Vanikiotis, proofreader
Hope and Help for Haiti
Jan 23rd
One of my favorite movie quotes comes from the 1984 John Carpenter film Starman. The film starred Jeff Bridges (who’s getting a lot of positive buzz over his role in the new film Crazy Heart) as an alien crashlanded on Earth who takes on the form of a human. He says that what he finds most beautiful about human beings is ”You are at your best when things are worst.” As I’ve watched the coverage of the horrific events unfolding in Haiti in the aftermath of last week’s earthquake, those words keep coming back to me.
One could make the argument that humans can be at their worst in the midst of the kind of chaos we’ve seen and heard about in that poor country (looting, armed men trying to break into orphanages where they believe there is food and water to be stolen). While it is true that despair and desperation might lead some to act purely in their own interests, the majority of reports indicate that individuals there have behaved heroically in digging out survivors and tending to the injured, homeless and shell-shocked.
Clearly, the desire to help has been felt by people all over the world who are far removed from the situation. Surely if the physical barriers that have prevented supplies and aid workers from getting to those who need help the most could have been dissolved by the prayers and good wishes of all of us watching the tragedy from afar, Haiti and her people would already be far on the road to recovery. However, the reality of a country with little infrastructure and resources before the earthquake and now decimated in its aftermath means that we must watch as help trickles in in the face of frustrating delays.
It is clear, though, that many are reaching out to help in ways large and small. Last night I watched some of the Hope for Haiti Now telethon, which is expected to bring in millions of dollars to several of the aid organizations leading the charge. The night before, on a local level, several bands from our area held a benefit concert and requested a minimum donation of $10. Even on a weeknight on short notice and in an area which has experienced steep job losses in the last year, they raised between 14 and 15 thousand dollars for the American Red Cross. Â
Global Traveler‘s current issue of our online newsletter, eFlyer, leads with a story detailing a number of travel industry companies who are donating supplies, cargo delivery, flights, miles and corporate matching funds of employee and customer cash donations (click here to read the story and find a list of organizations ready to accept your donation). The Carnival Corporation (encompassing cruise lines such as Holland America Line, Princess, Carnival, Cunard, Costa and Seabourn) has pledged a minimum donation of 5 million dollars to a collection of international aid organizations, but I am equally impressed by the generosity of the students who attend Green Lake Elementary School in Seattle, where my niece teaches second grade. In five days the 264 students there raised over $2,000 for UNICEF and Americares in a penny drive. That kind of response has been repeated all over the country — and the world — in schools and churches and businesses large and small.Â
Yes, it would be easy enough to ignore the unbelievable suffering and need in a place far from our own comfortable lives — if we were less than the kind of human beings which the alien creature in Starman admired. Thankfully, most of us (and especially those, like most GT readers, who have traveled and experienced how bound and alike we are to each other) respond with open and generous hearts when things are at their worst, no matter how distant the pain and suffering may be.
– Patty Vanikiotis, proofreader
