Birthday Greetings
Today’s not only my first blog, but it’s also my birthday. The confluence of the two sent me thumbing through old passports to jog my memory about any interesting birthday travels.
Most of those, it turns out, were in my early days writing leisure travel. I spent a lot of summer time in the islandsâ€â€travel writers get to go to the Caribbean in the hottest part of the summer, to make deadlines for fall articles that will help readers plan their winter vacations. We sweat, literally, over helping them escape the cold.
Shimmering heat dominates my memory of a trip to Haiti in the last days of Baby Doc Duvalier. There was still a tourism industry in those days, and I was part of a group of travel writers who were put up at the astonishing Habitation LeClerc. Even then, there was a jarring juxtaposition between the stark, grinding poverty of Port-au-Prince’s Martissant slum and the walled-in splendor of the Habitation’s 50-acre compound.
The Habitation had 36 villas, each pair sharing a pool; we each had one to ourselves. The property is so vast and hilly that golf carts transported those unwilling to make the hike from the reception area to their villa in the heat, and each villa had its own personal steward to run errands and deliver messages; there were no phones in the rooms. My all-time favorite travel anecdote comes from that stay.
My pool-sharing neighbor was Ron Butler, a wonderful writer and long-time friend. His teenage daughter had recently come to live with him in Manhattan, and this was the first time he’d left her alone in the apartment for any length of time. Just before 6 a.m. on the day we were scheduled to depart, his steward knocked loudly on his door. I heard him say urgently, “M’sieur Boot-laire! M’sieur Boot-laire! You ‘ave a phone call!â€Â
Ron, woken from a sound sleep, immediately thought of his daughter, threw on some clothes and dashed down the winding paths to the reception building. When he arrived, out of breath and already sweating, no one was behind the desk; he pounded on it to get some attention. A perfectly pressed and coiffed person placidly appeared, and Ron asked about his call. The gentleman thumbed through a file of messages, pulled one out with a flourish, and with a radiant smile said, “Ah yes, M’sieur Butler. This is your wake-up call.â€Â











about 3 years ago
Happy Birthday!
about 3 years ago
Hehehe, I had a similar situation many, many years ago in Mexico on a golf boondoggle. We all went to bed after arriving late and fell asleep two guys to a room. We were awaken by a loud bang on the door and it continued to get louder and louder. It seemed as if someone was trying to break the door down! Finally I said “what the hell is going on!” and the voice said “Señor, it is your wake up call.” I then looked around the room and noticed the room did not have a phone! Of course we all started to laugh hysterically.
about 3 years ago
Happy Birthday!!
On the pleasant end of the spectrum were the wake-up/dinner calls at Turtle Island in Fiji, where there were no phones and a group would come sing in front of our bures (huts) to let us know meals were being served!
about 1 year ago
I visited Habitation LeClerc in the early 1970′s when my first husband picked a tiny, intriguing ad
for it out of an issue of Gourmet magazine.
Each morning, our called out message was, “Banana daquiri!”
What a surreal place. I was only in my early twenties, then, and had never extreme poverty, and
so, as you can imagine, the ride from the airport, through Port Au Prince, streets lined with
people sitting on the side of the road selling mangoes, and then through the gates of the resort’s
walled compound, with it’s stark luxury, was all shocking to me. We swam in that gorgeous
swimming pool and were brought lobster salads, while guards on the wall with Uzi machine guns
patrolled the perimeter of the compound.